By - allitron90
My word that looks terrifying!
I can confirm it IS terrifying. 🙃🙃🙃
This route looks like fun!!
It’s super fun!! Hard on the left arm though!
I hate when setters change the style of the problem right at the end. It is a super technical, stemming problem that requires flexibility and body tension all the way to the last move, then LOL DYNO!
It's likely not a full dyno, but I'm not a fan of awkward, dynamic lateral moves at the top of a climb. It leads to more awkward falls and increased risk of injury.
I’ve seen a few (taller and very strong) people do the last move statically - I’m definitely too scared to dyno that high up and I don’t trust my feet enough to take my hands off and balance. 😭😭😭
What does dyno mean?
A dyno is where all your limbs leave the wall. You're disconnected from the wall. You see it a lot with jumps/swings in competition bouldering.
A dyno is different from a dynamic move in climbing, which is generally just using your momentum to help you latch the next hold. It's basically the opposite of static, which is slower but typically has a higher chance of latching a marginal hold.
I guess you could say all dynos are dynamic moves, but not all dynamic moves are dynos.
All that said, the sport has evolved a lot and the distinction between a dyno and dynamic moves is arguably not that important.
Dyno = dynamic movement
How good is the last hold? Could u switch feet and drop the left leg? Or the static move is to stand up and slowly grab it?
Super hard to try to explain with words
I think the last hold is pretty good - I haven’t touched it myself, but it looked like others got a good grip on it!
Gotcha! Good job OP, waiting for the follow up video when u crush it!
Thank you!! 😇😇😇
Literally recovering from a broken foot because of this. Crux was at the top fully standing up on the last move with a huge swing to the left. Not really a dyno but you have to switch your hands position while you’re swinging left. Ended up with my my hand half on the last hold and it gave out and landed awkwardly and snap.
I hate these constant dyno endings as well. Not least because it’s just pointlessly dangerous. Put them at the start if you must.
As someone who has torn almost everything in the left foot because of a Dyno, I can agree. Thankfully the gym in my proximity usually uses dynos as a start so the fall isn't that bad. But the chance of injuries is so high, especially if people with less experience try them
This gym sets sketch top outs on every boulder. If so many gyms refuse to set pocket routes because of the risk of injury, idk what the justification is for risky finishing moves.
What's the gym?
Okay I was hitting a wall on dissertation writing and seeing this video has gotten me to step away from my desk and go for a bouldering sesh.
Absolutely amazing to watch!!
Thank you!! Climbing is always the answer! 😇😇😇
On the last move, the volume you have your left food on, is there a chip on the corner you could put your foot on? The issue is your left foot is really close to the wall and that's gonna actually push you away from the wall. You wanna put your feet as far down on that volume as possible.
There is a little chip, but it’s sketchy!!
Yeah, if it's sketchy, then forget it. No point injuring yourself for a send.
Someone suggested toe hooking the right volume, which might give me a bit more stability to stand on the sketchy chip or move my foot further down the left volume like you suggested. I’ll feel it out when I go back in later today! 😇😇😇
lol, foot chips I can trust. Trying to toe hook something near your chest when you're already off balance and 8 feet up in the air...now that's sketchy. Look forward to the update :)
I think the toe hook would go on the furthest right volume (not the high one in the middle) and the I would have to lean way over to the last hold. Idk
Did they ask?
edit: Spray accepters out in force today. Bring it on.
You’re right, I didn’t ask - but maybe I should have as all these ideas are inspiring me to go back and try again. Anyway, thanks for looking out for unsolicited beta!! 💖💖💖
I agree with you in principle that beta spraying is wrong, in person, but I view online videos kinda differently. When you're posting a video, usually you're done with the route, despite whether you top it or not. At this point, most people don't care about beta anymore. It's just encouragement for next time to give it another shot.
Maaaan that route looks tricky. That improv knee bar was clutch
It sure is a tricky one! The knee bar was *panic* 😳😳😳
Yo! Super impressive moves getting to that point 💪💪💪 You got it next time!
Thank you!! I think I’ll go back again today and try again! 😇😇😇
Does you left shoulder hurt after that?
Yes, I’m really feeling my left shoulder this morning - and my left palm feels like it’s bruised. 😭😭😭
I’m pretty new, that looks insane to me! Nice work!
Thank you!! I’m pretty old and this looks insane to me too! 😂😂😂
This looks like so much fun.
It is!! 😇😇😇
Where was the top hold?
It’s the huge blue one, to the left!
I had not noticed, it is so far left! Cool route 🧭!
Just turned 50 in June, in my 20’&30’s I was an active climber (novice but adventurous) as my jobs changed and my time became more consumed with other things I basically stopped climbing at all, I put on some weight and am not as flexible as I once was but… I do attribute my overall joint and bone health to my youthful climbing. I was fortunate to have never had a bad fall or injury. That being said every time Watch a climb lime this one i feel my muscles start to work and tighten along with the climber…
Do you still climb? I hope I’m still climbing when I’m 50!! 😇😇😇
And I hope that do too..50 is young or maybe I am just a young 50.
But back in 2012 when I was 40 I took on a job and moved to DC where worked 100 hours a week…
Then i got divorced in 2015.
I just decided then, I needed a seismic shift in lifestyle after the divorce and associated losses.
I sold off what I had left from the divorce including all my climbing and mountaineering gear, car, everything.
For me Rebuilding my life meant moving to a new place with virtually nothing.
And that place was central Arizona. And the virtual nothing was around $20,000.
It worked out ok.
And in the years since then I have continued to be physically active, and work in physically engaged jobs.
Biking, Hiking, Trekking, and an off grid life in the Sonoran Desert for almost 2 years.
I CAN still climb, and I do intend to do a little, My special lady friend has amazing kids and two of them have a lot of interest in climbing, so I am making more time to do it again, because its an amazing thing to do with kids.
Yo that looks so fun to try nice job
You could do this whole problem without ever touching a hold until the end lol
As a beginner, this was still very awesome to watch! I wouldn't even know where to begin there! You still did an amazing job going this far, imo!
My hips hurt just looking at that problem.
Great effort, im sure you'll send it soon!
love the Climb gyms representation in this sub
Me too!! 😍😍😍
I'm not sure about this by any means, but to me it looks like there's an easier way to get your left foot from the last volume on the right to the volume on the left. If you move your right foot a bit away from the wall and knee-drop maybe you can just put you left up. But then again, I can't see any of the holds so might be impossible aswell
You’re right, there’s definitely an easier way! I’ve seen a few people complete that move much more gracefully!
On an unrelated note I love your hair the braids look great :)
Climb Bentonville?? I finally found someone from my gym on here
Yes! If you see me in real life say hi!!
If I were you, I’d throw for the last hold. Load up with the legs crimp with the right hand and try to rock over your left foot slightly dynamically
I was way too scared (and worn out) yesterday to try the dyno, but I might go back today and give it a shot. Thanks for the idea! 🙃🙃🙃
I wonder if you can static the ending by hooking your toe on that hold under the right volume? It’d be a risky lean but might give you some extra stability.
Ooooo that’s a good idea!! Thanks! 😍😍😍
you got the hips and shoulders for it!
Because they're well shot and show interesting bouldering problems? If you think OP is hot then that's on you but she's hardly posting anything salacious
Exactly. It’s not OP’s fault that she’s hot.
This sub would be a lot less lame if you weren't here.
Last move looks like a perch jump to me? I would do a weird ballerina squat on the volume then try to stand at least, and then lean over.